The information provided below was taken from several books and reports about leather. It is provided to help our customers make a very good and informed purchase decision, with confidence.

There is alot of misinformation in circulation, some is due to misconceptions that are passed along as facts and some is deliberate to mislead consumers. Here we breakdown some basics about leather creation.

What Is Leather? <Back to Contents>

Leather tanning is the process of converting raw hides or skins into leather. Hides and skins have the ability to absorb tannic acid and other chemical substances that prevent them from decaying, make them resistant to wetting, and keep them supple and durable.

The surface of hides and skins contains the hair and oil glands and is known as the grain side. The flesh side of the hide or skin is much thicker and softer. The three types of hides and skins most often used in leather manufacture are from cattle (cows), sheep and pigs.

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Real leather is composed of many microscopic fibers which are inter-linked. When leather is used, it bends and the fibers bend and rub against each other. When it was alive and connected to the oil ducts of the animal, the fibers were all naturally lubricated.

Once leather develops cracks, the cracks cannot be repaired, although further cracking can be prevented by applying oil or conditioners to the leather. Silicone waterproofing is only a surface coat and will not properly lubricate the leather fibers. Silicone can prevent oils from entering and lubricating leather so is only a quick fix for water-proofing.

Using a natural oil is very good although it will darken most leathers. A general purpose leather lotion or even hand lotion will replenish fiber lubrication and some will not darken the leather except temporarily.

Why Use Cowhide? <Back to Contents>

Cowhide is the most common leather used in the making of garments, furniture and leather goods. Cowhide as a category covers a wide spectrum of textures and quality, but generally, it is quite durable, easy to care for and resistant to water and dirt.

The best leather is full grain leather. The reason it is best is because it is the strongest part of the leather. At the top of the skin, or epidermis level, fibers are tighter together and hence stronger. In order to be considered "full grain leather" the leather cannot have been buffed or sanded on the top.

Therefore, at the surface the leather fibers are most closely inter linked, and hence strongest. When any of these fibers are buffed (sanded) in order to reduce the number of apparent blemishes, leather's natural strength diminishes.

Timot uses full grain leather for making all of its leather goods. We do not use Milled Leather. Milled leather is NOT strong enough for motorcycle apparel because the surface has been buffed, sanded and the grain pattern has been stamped into the leather, i.e. pig leather with a cow grain pattern stamped onto it. It is not strong because the upper most level of the epidermis has been removed and it is not necessarily cowhide.

Full grain leather may be hot plated or not, the plating (done with a large metal plate which has usually been etched to look like a perfect full grain leather) being added to hide some of the natural defects in leather.

What Are Good Properties of Leather? <Back to Contents>

The properties of leather vary considerably depending upon the type and quality of both the skins and tanning process. Every piece of leather has individual markings which relate to its origins and add character to each skin.

Relative to virtually all man-made textiles, leather is very strong and has a high resistance level to tears and punctures. The comfort provided by most leather goods is due in part to leather's ability to combine breathing and insulating properties. You may have heard... "Leather is hot in summer and cold in winter." In reality, leather adjusts constantly to its environment. Because it is a natural product, leather "breathes" freely, maintaining a comfort level in all seasons.

What Is the Difference Between Top Grain and Full Grain Leather? <Back to Contents>

Top grain leather is full grain leather that has usually been buffed and has originated from the top of the skin.

The finest leathers do not need to be plated, but are rare in a world of bugs, barbs, bumps, bruises and brands. It is expensive to raise animals in an environment that reduces the possibilities for injuries. Not many farms that raise cattle provide a flat plain with insect control, barbless fences, and soft foliage due to the high cost.

The buffing process involves sanding off the surface blemishes. Therefore, in this process the leather is weakened because most of the tightest leather fibers are removed.

The cheapest grades of "genuine leather" usually use the cheapest hides (such as pigskin) to replicate cowhide (it can still legally be called "genuine leather.") The best tanneries produce excellent top grain leathers because they only lightly snuff the leather and use top quality finishes and processes to duplicate the look of full grain leather. Often a smooth metal plate or hair cell metal plate is applied with heat and pressure to "kiss plate" the leather, or iron out wrinkles and some irregularities and provide a higher yield of cutting.

What Dye Process Does Timot Use?<Back to Contents>

We use an Aniline and Semi-Aniline Leather Dye Processes so that the color cannot be scratched to reveal a natural color beneath the surface. If we only pigmented the surface as is true with many leather products, even the smallest of scratches would show very easily.

Aniline Leather is tumbled in vats so the dye is completely absorbed by the skin. There is no other coloring agents or process, thus the finished leather tends to look and feel more "natural" - the unique markings and character of each skin are apparent. By way of analogy, this treatment is akin to the "staining" of wood.

Semi-Aniline Leathers which are a combination of both pigmented and aniline dyed; a very light pigment is added to even out the co lour and increase the durability. Most garments are made with semi-aniline leathers.

What Are Splits? <Back to Contents>

Some hides are sliced to a uniform thickness on precision machines.The lower portions or splits are weaker, due to the elongated cell structure.

Splits are subject to stretching and therefore provide an unstable base, which results in cracking of the finishes. These are not fit for use where strength and durability are necessary.